The Griswolds do Thanksgiving

There's a lot of stuff between southern Utah and Helena, Texas, but we wanted to get home for the holiday weekend, so we turned the rig southeast and tried to make good travel time while taking in a few of the more notorious national parks along the way.
Zion is apparently a destination for Californians during Thanksgiving and we were amazed at the number of vehicles and folks in the park on Thursday.  No hassles about a tree on a truck though since the red rock scenery doesn't support many firs!
Made the obligatory stop at the visitors center for souvenirs (plus an interesting book on Powell's expedition), then fell into the line of cars driving the road through the park.
Perhaps its the colors or the dramatic rock faces, but I found Zion more appealing than even Yosemite.  Again, mere photos can't do it justice, but we shot many more in Zion than anywhere else!

From Zion we dashed into northern Arizona, driving through the Kaibab Natl Forest (where we'll find our Christmas tree in the future - not only are they beautiful, they're also several states closer to home!) to the north rim of the Grand Canyon.  Fewer folks there, but the ranger on staff, Todd Haisachi, was as helpful and informative as any we've encountered.  Took the stroll out to Bright Angel Point and just gasped.  Not because of the high elevation (although that didn't help), but just because of the sheer magnitude and magnificence that is the Canyon.  "Grand" just doesn't seem a suitable title.
With the clear November air, we could see miles into the distance as well as the depths of the Canyon.  Not quite the Chevy Chase head-bobbing recognition of the area, but we didn't stay long ... we are committed to returning one day, perhaps doing a rafting trip along the Colorado and looking up instead of down.



 

 

What about Thanksgiving dinner?  Well, it may surprise you to know that there's not a whole bunch of options in the Navajo Reservation.  We did stop for sliced turkey sandwich meat and had a nice meal of that on Ritz with cheese and California fruits.  And were thankful for all we'd seen.

 

But there is no Thanksgiving without punkin pie, and lo and behold, on our way south we came to an intersection at Mt Carmel Junction, UT where the suburban of its own volition dove into the parking lot next to this sign....

 

 

It was only a 3-star pie - wasn't firm or spicy enough and the crust was a little mushy - but it was timely.  Sophia's apple pie with rum-butter syrup would have been a better choice for the true aficionado, rather than the sentimental fool.

 

Made our way into ABQ for the night.  If I'm anywhere in New Mexico, I can make Helena in a day, and we did ... took 799.8 miles, but we were home in time for dinner with Daphne and Marina!

 



The Trees

The Trees is more than just one of my favorite Rush songs (and perhaps one of the reasons it's taken them so long to be nominated to the Hall of Fame), it's also what the past two days have focused upon.
We drove along the eastern edge of California's Central Valley through groves of oranges, plums, olives, and others I could not recognize on our way up to Kings Canyon/Sequoia Natl Parks.  Windows down in the crisp dry air and the citrus scent filled the truck.  A few miles later it was replaced with alpine forest.
We both admit we were not prepared for the epic scale of the giant sequoia, the redwoods' big brother.  While they don't quite reach the same stellar heights as the coastal variety (325-350' vs. 350-375') they double them in mass and volume.  The stat that really stuck with me ... a sequoia's bark can be up to 31" thick!
We don't own cameras that can do these magnificent trees justice, but here are a few attempts...

And she thought playing against Poth was bad...

They must have been an inspiration to Tolkien.  Heck, I think I could write about a culture that lived in these tree tops!
Continuing with the tree theme, as we were stopping to photograph the truck by a tree for reference, noted red and blues in the rearview and got to visit with a dubious yet polite NP Ranger, Ranger Jordan.  She was curious about whether we were removing resources from the national park since we had a Douglas fir tree on the roof.  While Sophia tried to disappear into her seat, I patiently explained, then re-explained that the permit from ID was attached to the tree and the woman at the north gate would verify it was on the roof when we entered the park.  Ranger Jordan finally settled down enough to look for and check the NF permit.  Think she was convinced she had her big bust for the week and was a little overstimulated.  Perhaps I just have the affect on law enforcement.
Anyway, she handed my drivers license back and stated, "well, you don't look like a convicted felon and you haven't done anything wrong, so I'm just gonna let you go.  Just didn't want you to go through the park with that tree without someone from law enforcement checking you out."  Guess I'm glad that someone was her!  Perhaps now I have something to add to my bidness card - doesn't look like a convicted felon!
Found a wonderful fruit stand at an intersection that had an interesting shelter belt (one of my favorite agricultural features anywhere in the country) - olive trees planted to provide protection from northern frosts for citrus groves ended up being a lucrative business opportunity for the farmer.  Love stories like that!  And love the options of fresh California produce!

The transition from the Central Valley's produce basket to the Mojave Desert's harsher climes may be as stark as anything we've seen thus far.  There's plenty of life in the Mojave and I'm not one of those travelers that finds the region or those like it devoid of life or anything interesting.  Perhaps most telling are the only trees that dot the horizon for a hundred or more miles ... the joshua trees.

Just couldn't find Sam...

Okay, so now I've been to a national park where the scenery inspires as much wonderment as historical achievement.  Yosemite is worth the winding drive, the slow RVs, and even the crowds.  And this is the first NP I've been to where they are so focused on moving herds of people efficiently.  With 3.7 million visitors per year, I can understand why ... thankfully, there weren't the average 10,000 on Monday ... but there were still bunches.
At this point, will just let a few of the many photos we both snapped do the talking...

 

 

 

 

Yep, it merits a RAVE!

 

Making the turn

First stop was the Donner Memorial.  Tragic set of circumstances led to their being stuck in the pass due to a huge snowstorm.  The snow height reached the top of the statue in the photo.  Also led to discussions about what it takes to be so hungry you'd eat a friend ... and what it took to be a pioneer and even consider heading West.

Stopped our westward travels in Auburn, CA and began the south and east return loop towards Helena by driving down the eastern edge of the Sacramento Valley along CA-49, presumably so named because it was in this valley in the American River where gold was first discovered at Sutter Mill by James Marshall on 24 Jan 1848.  This began the gold rush, 49ers, western trails, etc. etc.

Standing where the gold rush began!

 

Continuing south, we came to the cabin where Samuel Clemens, aka Mark Twain, began his writing career with the Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County based upon folks and locations he encountered while in this part of California.

 

 

Also made a culinary find in Diamond Springs, CA at the Firehouse Cafe, just across the street from, you guessed it, the fire station.  One thing I have learned from my travels over the years is that fire fighters know where to find the best grub - from Slippery Rock to Diamond Springs, they've never steered me wrong.  Toasty, drippy reuben for lunch!

Basque-ing in the glow...

Our plans to go into Boise for a Basque dinner were thwarted by the BSU vs. CSU senior-day football game.  Motels and restaurants booked, we wound up in Bliss, ID for the night...and really, how bad can things be in Bliss?  Bears is an appropriately aggressive mascot, but really, shouldn't they be the Smiles?  Or the Dreams?  Or the Ignorance????
With Basque lunch on our minds, we turned south towards Nevada, stopping at the Hagerman Fossil Beds NM and 1000 Springs state park along the way.  The waterfowl migration has not begun yet, so one of our stops was at a pond so loaded with noisy ducks and geese, you couldn't speak in a normal voice.

And then, along a county road, we stopped and watched and listened to a covey of valley or California quail busily go about their day, chasing each other, whistling, and acting all quail-ly and cute.  Most satisfying perhaps for me was Sophia's appreciation for the birds, their beauty and their habits, without a blood lust desire to whack 'em.  Make no mistake, I love chasing them with Kali, and yes, they are tasty, but quail - all quail - are my favorite birds with their jaunty personalities, gaudy plumage, and family instincts.  Wish there were more and we certainly drove through places in southern ID where they were probably once abundant.  When it comes to upland hunting, I was definitely born a generation too late.  But, I'll not RAGE on about clean farming for now...

Basque cuisine was brought over from the Basque region along the Spain/France border by the shepherds who found work and a familiar environment in the region that encompasses southern ID, northwestern NV, northeastern CA and southeastern OR.  They built communities of immigrants complete with motels for lodging and meal houses for communal dinners using foods and spices reminiscent of home, especially lamb and garlic!
Suffice to say I'll drive a long way to sit at a Basque table.  Unfortunately, Basque tradition also means that Sundays are family days, so no lunches were available at any of the Basque joints in Winnemucca.  We pressed on for Reno, not one of my favorite destinations due to its size and gambling focus, but necessity required it.
Did go out to see Lake Tahoe along the way.  Averages 1,000' deep - jeez!  I'm sure it's very appealing, and crowded, during the summer, but we had the beach to ourselves...

Headed over the mountains into Reno at dusk and had a white-knuckle drive over ice and snow down the mountain.  Parked right outside Louis' Basque Corner and were seated immediately.  Sure coulda used a carafe of the house red wine, but settled on really toasty black coffee.
Soph had the NY Strip and I had the lamb chops.  We were joined at our table by a couple from Reno and one of their long-time companions, all probably retired and well-traveled.  Conversation quickly turned to Sophia's carschooling and then to upland hunting!
The hour and a half dinner just flew by.  The food and conversation were exactly what I had hoped for Sophia to experience.  All were in agreement that a Basque restaurant would be hugely successful in Austin!
We'll continue to seek out Basque establishments for the rest of the journey, as Sophia has become as big a fan as me ... and Funk ... and Burf!
Shut down in Truckee, and will visit Central Pacific RR and Donner sites before dropping into the Sacramento Valley, then beginning our turn to the south and east for a return to Helena for Thanksgiving.
So how far would I drive for a Basque meal?  Did 640 miles on Sunday!!!
Oh, and had an interesting conversation with the CA agricultural inspectors at the border about the Douglas fir on top of the truck ... but, we stil have it!

Fa-La-La-La-La La-La La-La

We spent a couple of hours afield with Jim and his drahthaar, Kenai on some BLM south of Salmon.  Crisp morning and great company.  After a few miles in the canyons, we were on our way back to the truck when we crossed one set of fresh bird tracks. 

 

Sent Kali that direction and she was in hot pursuit, as the single set of tracks turned into several.  Crossed two arroyos with a purpose and we had to run to keep up. 

As we crested the second hilltop, we saw her locked up on the arroyo edge.  Sophia put up six Hungarian or grey partridge, but her second barrel failed her this time.  Absolutely made Kali's day though - no thoughts about being 10 years old when there's a hot trail to follow!

On Jim's recommendation, we 4WDed up Iron Mountain to search for a Christmas tree.  Took a few miles and we were the only folks to have gone that way since the snows, but Sophia found one she liked... 

 

 



 

To quote Monty Python, "I'm a lumberjack and I'm okay..."  Hoisted it on top of UPLNDR for the 7-day, several thousand mile return trip to Helena.

 

Last stop of the day was Craters of the Moon Natl Monument, a lava flow caused by rifting rather than eruption.  Great geologic displays inside the visitors' center that tie in perfectly with Mrs. Wiatrek's lesson plans, so Sophia was taking notes and photos.  Truly eerie landscape, especially under the low clouds...

 

 

 Looked more like Mars to me, but haven't actually been there since they don't have any upland bird species, so what do I know...

Sophijawea

We spent time at the 1300-student Helena High School, discussing their lack of bad weather days (despite the ice+snow on the ground) and big-city problems and securing HHS Bengals gear.  They were ready to recruit Sophia for their 9th grade class on the spot, but she's too much of a Badger for that.
Drove south through Butte, MT, an historic mining community with thousands of building from the turn of the last century.  With the frosting of snow and gratuitous Christmas decorations along the streets, took on a very Dickens Londony atmosphere.  Could imagine some of my geology friends and family spending a lot of time around here!
Then off for one of my target destinations, the Big Hole Battlefield, where the fleeing Nez Perce were surprised in their village and attacked at dawn from an elevated and wooded vantage point.  Despite significant loss of women and kids (shot before they could exit their tipis), the warriors regrouped and assaulted the Army positions, inflicting heavy casualties and again providing time for the clan to pack up and pull out.
Made it 39 miles out MT-43 before the white-out conditions sent me scurrying back to plowed roads.  Dang it!

With undaunted courage, we continued south and made the westerly turn towards Lemhi Pass, this time on a county road that doesn't show up on any websites for road conditions.  Dropped it into 4WD and headed up.  Crunched and slipped and clumb our way up to the ID/MT line where the sun was shining and looked west into the Columbian basin.
While she was navigating, not sure Soph speaks any Shoshoni; while I was driving, not sure I would have had Jefferson's confidence for such an endeavor; and while she's along for the ride, not sure Kali would ever want to be Seaman, the Newfoundland!  But we made it, with a similar sense of satisfaction and accomplishment as the real explorers.

Slid our way down the ID side into Salmon where we visited the Sacajawea memorial site and then enjoyed dinner at Bertram's with Jim Foster, long-time hunting companion and a real outdoor writer.

Bertram's brew their own tasty IPA and also serves a nice prime rib on Fridays with very horsey sauce.  No fruit pies, but their punkin pie earns 3.5 stars just for the extra spices they add.
Stayed at the Stage Coach Inn with the Salmon River literally just outside our window.

Corps of Discovery

We're really into Lewis & Clark country now, working our way up the Yellowstone to the headwaters of the Missouri River. Even with highway, rail lines, farms and towns, this is breathtaking country. I can only imagine the overwhelming emotions the Captains felt as they pressed farther west.
I'd be in trouble with them all of the time for dropping my grip on the pull rope of the boat and climbing the river bank to get another view of the prairies, mountains, forests and wildlife.
We went north out of Cody to link up with the Nez Perce trail, another bit of history we'll criss-cross the next few days. Two miles across the Montana border, I saw a chukar in the grass on the edge of the road (Dad's got pretty good eyes when it comes to spotting birds), and even with her freshly laundered jeans on, Sophia's jaw was set on getting one of those dadgum things. We backed up (you can do that on a lot of Montana highways) and watched the bird and a couple of buddies, cross the fence into ... public land - BLM! As described before, hunting down on them is preferable, so we made a wide swing east and scrambled up an 80' outcrop. Kali did her thing and pinned the birds against the edge of the drop-off and Soph was reminded yet again how fast chukar can get gone.
Watched where they landed across the canyon, confirmed her fervent desire to get one, scrambled down the outcrop, across the canyon, up the taller outcrop to the south ... swung way south to get the wind, then came back into the wind along the edge of the drop-off.
This time Kali pinned them under the only tree on the hill in as pretty a point as I've ever seen her lock into...
Have decided as a parent that referring to Alectoris chukar as mother chukars is okay, even for a 13-year old. The revenge quest continues...
North of present-day Laurel, MT, Chief Joseph and his Nez Perce selected Canyon Creek as the point to turn and face the pursuing cavalry of Capt. Sturgis. Joseph stationed sharpshooters on either side of the canyon walls and poured a galling (I love that word) fire into the approaching troopers while the women, children and pony herd made their way up the canyon and out onto the plains beyond. The Army was forced to withdraw and the Nez Perce continued their escape towards Canada. They wouldn't make it... the Crows decided it was better to stay on the white mans' good side than assist their longtime friends, so they stole most of the Nez Perce pony herd, the primary strategic advantage they had over the Army. That and familiarity with the area - hence the mad dash for Canyon Creek.
There'll be lots more about the Nez Perce in the coming days as we move along the MT/ID border.
Also stopped at the headwaters of the mighty Missouri River, just east of Three Forks, MT. The confluence of the Madison, Jefferson, and Gallatin Rivers creates a deep, dark and powerful stream, laden with history, commerce, adventure, and despair. Have already admitted I'm a weird tourist, but when I stand on that spot, overlooking the dark swirling waters that ultimately end up in the Gulf of Mexico, I can feel history.

Helena, at last...

 

 

Closely-held subsidiaries of the Center of the Universe...

And the winner is...

Belfry, Montana - Home of the Bats!!!

Gonna be hard to top that one.  Honorable mention to the other MT towns along the same route ... the Bridger Scouts and Laurel Locomotives!  Oh yes, there were t-shirts purchased!

Chukar chuckles...

Since only the north entrance to Yellowstone remains open, we had to make a swing east and north to get there, which coincidentally (??) took us through one of my favorite canyons - the Wind River north of Shoshoni.  On the way in, Soph got to experience pogonip, or frozen fog.  Really nasty stuff that builds up an ice layer on the front of the vehicle as it reduces visibility to 100 yards.  Fun stuff.  But, as we entered the canyon carved over the millenia by the Wind River, the fog lifted and Soph was treated to what I consider as one of America's most scenic drives, complete with tunnels AND signs indicating the geologic eras of the various stratigraphy, dating back hundreds of millions of years!  There's that art+function thing I love so much!  Pictures can't do it justice, but I'll try...

My favorite canyon also coincidentally opens up in Thermopolis, WY, one of my favorite places to hunt chukar ... there's a popular adage about chukar hunting that goes something like "the first time you do it for fun...every time after that is for revenge."  The same birds I've been chasing for five years taunted Sophia and Kali.  Chukar have a nasty habit of flushing/running up 35%-45% grades and stopping at the rim, profiled against a brilliant blue sky, to look down at scrambling dog and hunters and, I swear it's true, chuckle.  And it echos through the canyons so all the chukar in the county know the slide show is happening.  The best approach is to descend on them from the heights, but that's a little more difficult with 6"-8" of melting snow on the roads above.
You'll note there are no photos of Sophia's first chukar, but that's not from lack of determined effort.  And the melted snow creates Wyoming mud on a steep incline.  When we returned to the rig, her only request was that we find a motel with guest laundry!  It'll be revenge for her from now on!
Thermopolis is located in a region of geologic significance and has a very good museum to prove it ... the Wyoming Dinosaur Center, a privately funded research facility with displays that rival the Royal Terrell in Drumheller.  Again, photos don't do it justice, but...

Ranchers out here like prairie dogs about as much as those in SouTex like hogs, and they love anyone who'll eliminate a few for them.  But small targets at 100+ yards require practice.  Bought a .17 HMR rifle in MT for just this reason and it needed to be sighted in, plus Soph needed to be comfortable with it.  So with lots of public land and low winds (finally), I got it close, then let her take a shot ...

Kid's a natural ... fella that thinks he's gonna impress her is gonna have to work pretty hard!  Unless she really likes him and just lets him win so his ego isn't crushed.

Gone for a scone?

It's a big country, especially out west where two inches on a map is 100 miles and may take 3 hours due to road conditions (thinking this won't be as much of an issue when we go east-at least the distances).  Plus, there's lots of places I've never seen ...
But there are places that merit a return if you're within a state or two.  One of these is Me 'n Lou's Restaurant in Malad City, ID, if just for their scones.  Not scones like my lovely baking wife makes with orange and cranberry, but more in the line of huge fried donuts.  Dip 'em in local raspberry honey and you'd make the drive as well.  Works great for supper AND breakfast, and that's just what we did!

With the worst of the winter storm passed, we decided to make our way back into WY to get to Grand Tetons and Yellowstone NPs.  That included passing through Hell's Half Acre, a significant lava flow in southern ID and part of the Craters of the Moon NM, plus a drive along the Snake River - one of those waterways that frequently shows up in history, beginning with those two guys, Lewis & Clark.  Soph was amazed at how clear and fast it flowed, despite its size and depth.  The turquoise color is something you don't see at home!
Unfortunately, the Grand Tetons were shrouded in snowy fog, so we didn't stay long and only took a couple of pictures.  But, you already know my feelings about pretty places vs. places of historical significance ... wasn't hard to move along.
Knew there were some mountains to cross that evening, but WYDOT said the roads were good.  After a 10 mile climb and 3 miles descent on solid ice and snow, at dusk, I guessed that WYDOT doesn't figure there'll be a lot of Texans on their roads in mid-November!

Looks a bit like a ski run, huh?

It's not that I don't have confidence in the rig or the well-researched tires or myself ... what's really nerve-racking are the locals that fly by at 65mph pulling a trailer!
Told Soph we were stopping at the first motel we found below ... pulled my white knuckles off the steering wheel at the Rocky Mountain Lodge in Dubois, WY and mojo took over.  Best motel for our needs so far on the trip, including a kitchen and a spectacular view of the Wind River out the back porch ... in fact, let's give it a RAVE in case you ever find yourself in western WY!
In need of a hearty dinner and adult beverage as well, we pulled up to the Cowboy Cafe in downtown Dubois - log cabin building with max occupancy of 47, but only 10 tables, so yep, you share a table.  But they do have home made pies!  Another RAVE for the apple-blackberry!  Firm spicy apples in the filling complimented by tart blackberries, with seeds and all.  Top crust perfectly sugared and browned (painted with egg white prior to baking I think).  Outside crust was well-browned and crunchy, not soggy.  Slight hint of toasting.  All-in-all a 4-star slice!  And easily pushing for tops on the trip. 

Oh, and it does go well with Jackson Hole Brewing's Swan Valley Pale Ale... as an appetizer of course.
Can also report that Cowboy Cafe's hamburger steak was the BEST I've ever had, including my own grilled at home.  Ironically, they use a seasoning I have in my spice drawer, but have never used for HB steak!  Perfectly cooked, moist, and tasty with home made mashed taters and fresh corn niblets - not from a can.
Worth the drive - even THAT drive! 

Favorite monument

We've obviously seen many inspiring and beautiful parks and monuments along the way, but today we finally visited my most anticipated, way out in the desert of northern Utah.  To me, it is one of the single greatest testaments to American ingenuity and accomplishment - the Golden Spike National Historical site, the point where the Central Pacific (from the west) and Union Pacific (from the east) railroads met in 1869 at Promontory Summit.  The sheer magnitude of men and material, scarce resources in the middle of the Plains or Sierra Nevadas, and the engineering challenges for that era are astounding.  Not to mention the depredations of Plains tribes irritated by the loss of timber and game, unyielding granite wherein cutting 8" was a good day and the Chinese laborers walked through tunnels burrowed in 40' of snow to return to their cabins, and the whole Civil War thing.

I could literally go on and on about standing at this point of historical significance, but Stephen Ambrose did such a good job in Nothing Like It In The World I should just recommend that and refer you to the photos below - will admit I shot more here than at Rushmore (am I weird or what?)...

Cut just east of Golden Spike - Ogden is just south of the snowy mountain on the horizon.

 

The Big Fill is located on the left and was determined to be far superior to the rickety trestle built from the end of where Kali is standing to the abutment across the creek...done by hand with mule-drawn carts!

Each railroad was being compensated based upon miles of grade and track, and since there weren't an abundance of gov't inspectors out here, they just kept right on building grade, side-by-side, getting partial payment until the final meeting point was selected and a grade chosen. The two grades are visible going up the opposite hill (at the required 2%) with a large cut visible on the left and a less severe one just to the left of the sage brush in the middle of the hill.

 This is the only artifact I've ever ever found in all of the historical places I've trod ... left it where it we found it, but kinda cool to think it may have shown up on this grade 145 years ago ...  

This is a replica of CPRR's Jupiter engine, No. 60.  Again, could fill pages with the info we received from the Ranger ... plus since the engines were in the shed for the winter, we got to see them up close and with all of the tools and parts the NPS uses to keep them operational.  Oh, and found out you can volunteer, and if they like you and you work hard enough, you might end up shovelling coal as a fireman.  Man.....

 

And this is UPRR's No. 119 which came from the east.

 



 

These are brake pads!!!  Made of wood and turned against the steel wheels by brakemen from the top of the cars.

 

Pin couplings...was said you weren't an experienced coupler unless you were missing fingers!

 

So okay, I'm really excited by the technology and ingenuity that created the Transcontinental Railroad, but ironically, only a few miles from the Nat'l Monument, ATK Technologies (Morton Thiokol) has a static display of their solid-rocket booster engines used on a variety of craft, including space shuttles.  Past to present ... we can certainly join oceans and touch space.

 

 

 

Some final thoughts on the Transcontinental Railroad.  It sure seems like a testament to what government can accomplish when it encourages risk and competition that rewards results rather than simply taking control or mandating a result or predetermining a winner.  No surprise there were abuses in the 19th century, exploited loopholes if you will.  But the net result certainly speaks for the power of American business and entrepreneurship.  When a society desires a certain result and government simply provides incentives to achieve that result rather than becoming involved in the process, or worse creating barriers, there don't seem to be any mountains we can't move, climb, or drill through.