Sunday, July 3, 2022

Icelandic Impressions 2.0

There’s a Pragmatism that seems to come with living on an island at the north end of the world. Have already mentioned the “know your limits,” “travel at your own risk and accept the consequences” mentality.

And having sheep graze the roads makes perfect sense. They could quadruple the sheep herd and still not damage the vegetation.

But also, traffic-wise, there’s few stop signs in the countryside - Yield covers the vast majority of traffic situations, because there’s just not much. Major intersections are either round-abouts, where the inside lane has the ROW, or simply yield signs…be polite…no one’s in a real hurry anyways!

One-lane bridges just make perfect sense on the hundreds, if not thousands, of stream crossings - costs half as much to construct! As you approach, if you see another vehicle across the bridge but closer than you, you wait until they pass, then cross.  Sometimes you even have to wait for 3 cars! But, you can just look at the stream and imagine where you’d run your fly, if’n you had access…

No traffic cops, just the occasional speed cameras that have warning signs posted. In the vast emptiness, it’s pretty easy to wander slightly above 90kph (55.9 mph) however, so we’ll see how many times I got tagged absentmindedly…

And yes, everything’s expensive in Iceland, but it’s a frikkin island! Electricity is cheap because they harness hydro- and geothermal power so pragmatically. Hot water is free!

Friendly service is everywhere and they tend to cringe when you try to tip them for their efficiency and kindness, but it’s hard to break southern habits!

Wouldn’t suggest trying to out drink or party a native however. They have about seven months a year of cold darkness, so they get a lot more practice than most and when the weather brightens their lights shine brightest. 

(Warning!) Do Not View if Sensitive to Human Consumption of Large Herbivores


The Icelandic horse is an iconic part of their history and landscape and its genetics are highly preserved and protected by the government. They are used to round up sheep from the mountains in the fall, for tourist riding, but they are also livestock raised for consumption, especially since you see at least 3x as many horses as cattle. 
Just like the Guinea pig in Peru, had to try some at the Pakkhús in Höfn. The loin most closely resembled venison inner tenders to me and was tasty. The Plains tribes preferred colt to any beef or bison and can definitely see why now…

Norwegian reindeer were introduced in Iceland several centuries ago and are the only large mammals that survived their introduction. Elk, musk ox, wood bison, caribou and deer couldn’t handle the changes in weather. 
Saw some along the eastern coastline, then tried some for dinner. Most closely resembles elk to my taste. 




Homemade gnocchi with reindeer 

But lamb is Iceland’s primary meat source, besides fish. More on that later…

Skalafellsjökull by Snowmobile!

The Skalafellsjökull glacier is the largest in Europe and one of the most accessible, if you don’t mind a 45 minute drive in a 4x4 up a foggy mountain road!
The snowmobiles are parked up top. The coveralls are essential!



About 10km across the snow took us to the glacial edge looking down into the river valley that feeds the Iceberg Lagoon we visited earlier. 




Can definitely see the appeal of racing across the snow on these fun machines! Just wish we weren’t restricted to well-rutted routes, but gotta respect the glacier.
Foresee more of this kind of fun when Marina moves to Denver!

Saturday, July 2, 2022

Ring Road scenery

It’s really no stretch to say that if you took a photo every 5km on the Ring Road, it’d be different and beautiful scenery, so it’s simply impossible to post them all, but since we’re nearly at the halfway point currently, a few seem in order…

Systrafoss (Sister Falls) - yep, the whole fam-damily was on the Iśland for a while!

It’s worth mentioning that the weather changes about every 5km as well!

Just one of the numerous streams that hold trout or char, but are also privately held by angling clubs. Can’t really blame the farmers for supplementing their income with lease income from silly people that’ll travel thousands of miles to stand in cold water and try to fool a fish!

Did I mention the weather?




Fun stuff on a mountain road! About 200’ visibility…



On the north side there’s the lava desert, Myvatnsöraefi, that is a great place to train for a Mars landing!


We stopped stopping at the foss (falls) because we’d never get home otherwise… but the streams always call to me. Marina actually said “I hope you don’t see a fish.” Not that I could have done anything (legally) about it anyways…

Just too much. Overwhelmingly beautiful!

Nursery Road

It’s spring in Iceland so the critters are making quick work of the next generation too…

Friendly kitties all over the Iśland…

A trumpeter swan and her signets 

Icelandic oystercatchers with their hatchlings

Just haven’t found enough baby trout and char recently!

Lambs, lambs, lambs -everywhere, but mostly along the road!

An eider family reunion? Apparently the drunk uncle wasn’t welcome.


More eiders on the way…

Diamond Beach & the Ice Lagoon

Where the Vatnajökul glacier (largest in Europe) runoff smashes into the North Atlantic some beautiful and dramatic stuff happens!

Sometimes, little bitty icebergs that are thousands of years old make it outside the jetties only to be washed ashore on the black sand of aptly named Diamond Beach

Just wish the microphone could have caught the impact and smashing grinding noises as this berg that was probably 60’-70’ long was pushed upriver by the incoming tide and driven against the other bergs accumulated.

Can only imagine the scene on a falling tide!



Seals take advantage of the current for easy supper



Icelandic Lava Show


Despite the frequent and violent eruptions in Iceland, the odds of it happening during our trip are pretty small (sorry, no extra drama), so we took the opportunity to see how molten lava flows, cools, forms etc. 

They take basalt from the 1918 Katla eruption near Vik, heat it in their furnace to 2,000°F, then let out ooze down their volcanic channel. Plenty warm in the room, but fascinating watching it flow over ice (many of the active volcanoes are under glaciers), gradually stop flowing and build on itself, and the various lava tubes and pockets they can reproduce in this controlled environment. 

Very instructive and also impresses the awesome destructive power of the Earth changing herself.


The country has created an SMS warning system, not so much for explosive eruptions as for the tremendous flooding that might occur if an eruption occurred beneath one of the massive glaciers. Vik has built dams to buy time for its citizens, but the destructive force of volcanic flooding is evident along the entire southern coastline of Iceland. 

That’s 1/2” bridge steel that Mother Nature mangled during an early 20th century glacial ice dam collapse 

An idea of the scoured devastation that a 60m high wall of flood water can create. It’ll be millennia before anything can grow in this space again, and it used to be pasture


Friday, July 1, 2022

Dropping in on Vik

Although a little drizzly with low ceiling, Daphne and Marina were able to do some paragliding from the bluffs over Vik into the municipal field in town. 
Daphne was the lady in red 

Marina caught the rainbow


Into the clouds