Wednesday, January 2, 2013

The Virginias

The region where Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, and West Virginia meet is confusing at best and chopped up by state lines, rivers and mountains.  WV formed after seceding from VA during the Civil War and was added to the Union as a border state.
The Shenandoah Region is very beautiful, but what surprised us most traversing the area was the abundance of fruits and vegetables available.  It's not the Sacramento Valley, but it's easy to forget that VA was and is an agricultural mecca and we brought home a box full of luscious apples plus other goodies as proof.
Our primary destination was Appomatox Court House where Lee surrendered the Army of Northern Virginia to Grant in the parlor of the McLean house.  Although not filmed at ACH, the set from the Lincoln movie is incredibly accurate.

The two generals agreed to meet on neutral ground, but felt the actual courthouse was too formal a setting for their discussions, choosing instead the McLean's parlor as a more suitable environment for their gentlemanly negotiations.  Lee and his staff were at the left desk, Grant to the right.


A few interesting factoids from the Ranger that conducted our tour ... many history books inaccurately refer to the setting as "Courthouse," but in the 19th century the two-word Court House was frequently used to identify the village where the courthouse was located.  Also, General Ely S. Parker, a Seneca Indian chief, was on Grant's staff and handled all of his papers, including the surrender.  Though Parker attended law school, as an Indian he was not permitted to practice law.  His biography is among the many books I picked up during the trip - should be very interesting.
It's also interesting to note the emphasis paid to the dignity with which the Confederate soldiers were treated by the Union troops that were present for the surrender.  Perhaps it was the somber realization that the war was over; the uncertainty of what waited at home for their return, both North and South; or maybe it was just respect for the gallant efforts on both sides ... but there is no record of taunting or scuffles.  In fact, the Union troops gave much of their limited rations to the starving boys in grey.  And those men, penniless, many shoeless, and all without even a hunting rifle, began their journey home.
Finally, Appomatox shares a parallel history with Helena ... the battle in the area that led to the surrender was for the rail lines that passed nearby.  When the actual courthouse burned a few years later, the new one was built on the railway, effectively sealing Appomatox Court House's fate, just like Helena.
Although Lee only surrendered the Army of Northern Virginia, that broke the Confederate spirit and resolve and the remaining armies surrendered shortly thereafter.  Interestingly, the final shots of the Civil War were fired at sea where the C.S.S. Shenandoah was attacking Union shipping in the northern Pacific, unaware of the actual surrender - a fascinating historical read if you come across that book.
Finally, for Burf!'s and my sake, I always like to check out the historical kitchens.  I could work with this...

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