Friday, December 27, 2013

Good to be home

But I still claim that a wet 44 in SouTex is worse than a snowy 28 up north.


Tuesday, December 24, 2013

Wrapping up

When we got in the truck after Chickamauga, I took the map off the dash board, looked at Marina and asked "what's next?"  She took a deep breath, gave a long sigh, and said "I'm tired."

Frankly, I was too, but we still had a couple of days "scheduled" to be on the trip.  But there's no point in forcing the issue, especially if you know that if your Dad is within 1,000 miles of home, he can get there with 4 coffee breaks, 2 fuel stops, and one pee stop ... so we punted.

But as we were leaving there was one sign that caught my attention and we had to pull over - couldn't get a factory tour, but loved the factory store and will definitely be back to visit one day.
Just find it humorous that the cast iron mecca is located in South Pittsburg, AL!
So we took the Tuscaloosa to Helena express and slept in our own beds the next night.

It's impossible to condense an epic adventure like this into a few words at the end of a blog, even with several days of consideration.  I suspect Marina will spend the rest of her life gleaning little sniglets of history, fun, and memories.  So many times she was reminded how fortunate she was to have this opportunity, but I don't think that really sinks in until later - like when you have to sit in a classroom in January, for instance!

I know we grew closer and got to know each other much better, which sounds like a funny thing for a Dad to say, but how often in today's hustle-bustle do we have two months dedicated to a single child?

I know I don't feel like driving anywhere for a while.  We logged 17,495.5 miles on this adventure (drove Daphne's new truck clean out of warranty) and Marina has now been to 47 states!

I know I've really enjoyed just crawling into my own bed without unloading suitcases and looking for a restaurant.

And I know that I need to finish this up so we can get started on our Santa cookies, gingerbread houses, and Vigil Mass. Thanks for following along with us.  Thanks for the encouraging words and texts along the way.  Happy for the new friends we met along the road.  And the new pies and beers we discovered as well.

Been there, done that - what's next?

Merry Christmas to you and yours!!!

I'll be touring America 12 oz. at a time for the foreseeable future!

The Smokies

Great Smoky Mountains NP is a pretty park, but it does have some historical references.  One of the Cherokee's Trail of Tears began in the region, although some were able to stay based on treaties they had signed in 1819.  Many of the buildings that were on park ground were preserved, mostly farm-related.  And it is a pretty park...
Can't say for certain there was a still near this particular house, but I'd bet so ...


Since they receive an average of 85" of rain a year, there's plenty of vegetation and moisture which creates the blue smoke (or fog) that fills the valleys.
The kitsch and vendors and gift shops that bordered the park on either side were just too much for us and we beat a hasty retreat southwest.  Obviously there must be folks that love this sort of stuff or they wouldn't still be in business, but the contrast of national park beauty to yucky commercialization is stark and abrupt.  Plus, we like to support the actual parks, so all of our souvenir purchases are at visitors' centers - and I'd encourage all to do the same.

We crossed into Georgia and stopped at the Chickamauga Battlefield NM.  Chattanooga was a crucial river and rail crossroads for the CSA, so it was a primary Union target.  Despite strong defensive positions, Bragg's forces in Chattanooga were outflanked by Union maneuvers, so the actual battle occurred at Chickamauga Creek.  Another case of gruesome slaughter - attacks, repulsions, counterattacks.  Ultimately, a breakdown in communication created a huge gap in Union lines that split their forces and rolled them back towards Chattanooga.  Of note at this battle was the importance of repeating arms - one group of Union troops armed with Spencer seven-shot rifles were able to hold off repeated Confederate assaults while the rest of the troops made good their retreat.
Like so many other Civil War battles, there were numerous tales of heroism and courage, terrible loss of life, and military prowess and failure.  While the Federal troops were driven from the field, they still held Chattanooga.  As the city lay under CSA siege, Grant and Sherman arrived and would ultimately push their way out up Missionary Ridge and Lookout Mountain, and on to Atlanta.
One CSA soldier writing home described their failure to hold Chattanooga as the "death knell for the Confederacy."


The Fuller Gun Collection housed at the Chickamauga Visitor Center is as impressive for its story as its size.  Claud Fuller started collecting guns in 1886 while he worked in the brick industry.  Even with a 7th grade education, his passion for how things worked (guns and brick making machinery) made him a successful engineer and collector.  He was so busy with work, his wife would haunt auctions and pawn shops, buying quilts and knick-knacks to conceal her pursuit of the arms.  They donated the collection on July 4, 1954 and it merits a visit if you are in the Chattanooga area.

3 wars in a day

Our time in South Carolina was brief, but spanned quite a bit of history.  We started at Ft Sumter, where the Civil War began.  Found out you have to use a "concessionaire" to access the site and we both have grown to despise the services that make money from US historical sites ... also not big fans of the kitsch that sprouts outside national parks.
So we didn't take the ferry ride, but discussed the Civil War a bit from the shoreline.
Spent a few minutes checking out the USS Yorktown, but since Marina has already been on the Lex and was on the USS NC the day prior, it was time to move along, so WW II was covered, but about as briefly as the modern high school textbooks.

We did take some time to dress up the truck a bit more.  Even rope lighting on the roof rack!

Yorktown has an impressing battle history, but too late in the trip to capture Marina's attention.
Cowpens Battlefield NM however, did merit more of our time and interest.  Located along the SC/NC border, it was a crucial battle late in the Revolutionary War.  The British had basically abandoned military tactics in the southern colonies after early defeats, but locked in a stalemate in the northern colonies and New England, Cornwallis' army became the focus of British strategy by 1780-81.  Cowpens was actually some open meadows used by local cattle raisers to fatten livestock prior to sale in Charleston...not a particularly desirable battle site if you have untrained militia facing off against seasoned redcoats.
But there were Continental Army regulars there too, under the able command of Daniel Morgan (of Saratoga fame) and they faced the hot-headed and much-hated Banastre Tarleton.  It plays out with fascinating drama on the field as Morgan had his militia hold fire until the British were near enough to identify officers - "find the epaulettes and aim low boys!"  After their first volley, the militia fall back behind a second line of riflemen under the same orders.  The British pursue enthusiastically, assuming the rebs were fleeing.  The second volley took it's toll and then all of the militia retreated behind a hill, away from the battle.  The redcoats came on right into the waiting Continental regulars.  Continental cavalry under William Washington protected the flanks and routed the redcoat horsemen.  The battle was over quickly and a resounding victory.  It devastated Cornwallis' western forces and was crucial to his ultimate withdrawal to Yorktown - and we know how that ended up.


Just best not to mess with cattlemen around their cowpens...

Wednesday, December 18, 2013

USS North Carolina

An Iowa class battleship from WWII, this regal lady is moored in Wilmington and lovingly preserved by the state. An all access self guided tour really gives you a feel for life on the high seas and the power and technology associated with the aptly described dreadnought. Also that there probably weren't a lot of six foot sailors.



That's a lot of wiring. 

A properly provisioned ship's store. 

Six barbers aboard. Wonder if they were open during rough seas?

Beneath one of the main 16" turrets. Very efficient storage and firing system. 

Now that's an anchor chain. 


Each round was nearly five feet long,weighed up to 2700#, and used 540# of propellant to fire accurately out to 26 miles. 

Moore's Creek Battlefield

A key battle early in the Revolution, the militia victory thwarted British plans in the southern colonies and turned their focus to New England.
Loyalists, or Tories, composed of many Scottish Highlanders, were marching across North Carolina to meet the British navy and army with men and supplies at Wilmington. The outnumbered militia fought a delaying effort until they arrived at this bridge.
In a brilliant tactical move, a small detachment camped on the west side of the creek and after lengthy discussion refused to surrender to the superior Tory force. When the Tories moved in to attack early the next morning, the camp was empty and the bridge disassembled but not destroyed. Thinking this was a desperate mistake by the retreating militia, the Loyalists crossed the surprisingly deep and swift stream right into the trap of earthworks and cannon the militia had built during the night.
It was the last recorded attack by Highlanders with broad swords, and they were no match for the militia's muskets and cannon.

The Loyalists view as they crossed the bridge. "Aye we have them now lads! Draw swords for the King!"

The militia's view as the men in kilts approached. 

Just a cool tree growing on the site. 

OBX

Always nice to tie the two ends of a historical time line together. We saw where the Wright Brothers designed and built their Flyer and then went to the Kill Devil Hills near Kitty Hawk where they successfully flew it four times . Our visit was timely because we were one day before the big 110th anniversary celebration, so we had the experience without the crowds. 
It's amazing how much the island has changed in that time. Photos of the flights show an empty unvegetated beach from the dunes used for the initial  glider flights to the water. Now there are trees and shrubs (and condos) everywhere. 




Bodie Island light house on the Outer Banks at moonrise. 
For some reason, both Marina and Sophia have decided that the Outer Banks might be a great place to live.

Yorktown

A ship better suited for crossing an ocean, at least in my opinion. Moored on the York River, just upstream from Yorktown.




Two things I really liked about the Yorktown Battlefield NM, all of the remaining earthworks which really tell the story of the siege, and the emphasis given to the French participation in the victory. Their fleet drove off the British ships coming to Cornwallis assistance and they actually had more troops on the field under Washington and Lafayette than the Americans.
After Cornwallis' humiliating surrender it still took two more years to complete the Treaty of Paris, but I understand that Franklin enjoyed his time in France while negotiations drug on.


View from inner British defenses. Redoubts 9 and 10 are visible to the left and the scene of the only real small arms combat. Once they were taken the Colonial artillery could fire nearly point blank and surrender came quickly. 

Jamestown

The Jamestown colony was established by the English nearly 50 miles up the James River to avoid detection and attack by the Spanish who were most active (and profitable) in the New World. Of course, the Powhatan were well aware of their new visitors. The initial contact was friendly enough, but over time, miscommunication and aggression turned the relationship into something more tenuous.
Marina did learn that Disney is not the best way to learn history, like Pocahontas, actually a daughter of a chief,   marrying Rolfe, a wealthy landed gentleman, not John Smith, who had little standing in English society and was even considered a bit of a rascal, despite his bravery and military skill. The marriage had value politically as it ceased aggression until her father died. She died in England after a few years as a savage exhibition.

Powhatan huts were well - built and comfortable. 

Six vessels made the original crossing stuffed with men and supplies. The peninsula between the York and James Rivers was a perfect locale because there was a deep water channel adjacent to shore so unloading was much easier. The replica craft were interesting. And way too small to consider crossing an ocean with!






The reproduction village of Jamestown was also instructive. Although fort is really a more descriptive term.




Monday, December 16, 2013

1st is my 49th

We ventured along the coast from Williamsburg on Sunday, traversing the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and Tunnel, stopping to walk the beach and boardwalk and eat some crab cakes in Ocean City, MD, then visiting my 49th of these United States, Delaware, the first state.

This container ship was under full steam as it passed over us in one of the tunnels. 

Not the same without the Jersey folks in their speedos or thongs covered with gold chains and oil, but maybe that's a good thing. 


Fredericksburg

It was here in this pretty northern Virginia town that the war took a particularly ugly turn. The Union army was not having much success against the CSA, so Lincoln and his generals decided to take the war to the southern economy. Since the South wasn't an industrial power, it's strength lay in the towns and farms where food and provisions were made and in the agricultural products sold to purchase arms.
At Fredericksburg, General Burnside was given the authority to assault the town, even though Lee's defenders were on the higher ground beyond the community. Union forces were repulsed and suffered tremendous losses against Lee's fortifications, but they pillaged and burned the town along the way. While the tactic had a profound effect on southern productivity in the coming years, it also fomented a hatred for the Yankees that can still be found today without looking too hard or deep.

The Sunken Road defenses that Burnside hurled waves of Union troops against at tremendous cost and unsuccessfully. One of the places where Marina wondered why. And how you could keep going when you were stepping over your dead and dying comrades. 

Special Orders 191

Always amazed at how the tides of history can change due to one minor incident. Lee was pressing north towards Pennsylvania and DC. He believed that Confederate victory on northern soil and the presence of his army near the Capitol so close to the election of 1862 might sway war weary voters to press for peace.
Stonewall Jackson successfully captured Harper's Ferry after several days of fighting but it was there that the Civil War arguably turned against the Confederacy. Someone found Lee's Special Orders 191 wrapped around some cigars on the battlefield.
They revealed Lee's strategy to move north with his divided forces and gave McClellan the chance to strike Lee near Sharpsburg, MD, or Antietam. The day would prove to be the bloodiest in our history. Only the arrival of reinforcements from Harper's Ferry saved Lee's army from total defeat and while history calls the battle a draw the losses were so significant Lee was forced to abandon his planned invasion of the north.

Antietam


Although hardly a military victory, Lincoln used Lee's withdrawal to issue the Emancipation Proclamation and change the focus of the war effort. The combination of being thwarted at Antietam and the Proclamation effectively ended any chance of foreign support for the Confederacy.
All found wrapped around some smokes. And what soldier wouldn't pick up a bundle of cigars?

Nothing Civil about it

As an amateur historian, I have now had the opportunity to come face to face with the gaping holes in my familiarity with the Civil War, or the War of the Northern Aggression or the War of the Southern Rebellion depending upon your bent.
The chronological part is easy enough to grasp and I found a perfect book for that pursuit at Fredericksburg. It's Marina's questions, specifically "why?" and "how?" with which I struggle.
War inevitably leads to innovation, especially in artillery and repeating arms in the 1860s which far outstripped the progress in military tactics or medicine. More than half the casualties were from disease to say nothing of the lines of blue and grey that squared off in the face of each other and poured volleys of half inch hot lead balls across short distances.
Our battlefield visits have not been in chronological order, but it is enlightening to present them that way, at least the ones in Maryland and Virginia.

Let's start with First Manassas, or Bull Run. Learned that the CSA named battles for nearby towns while the Union tended to use streams or rivers.
While folks were attending church in Washington DC the Sunday morning of July 21, 1861, they thought they heard the rumble of distant thunder. When they learned it was the long anticipated first battle that many on each side assumed would be all that was necessary for victory they packed picnics and sat on adjacent hillsides to watch the show.
Green troops in each army got their first taste of battle. Union soldiers were even excited because their 90 day conscriptions were about to expire.
There's no way to condense the story on this single page, but as the monument's movie is entitled, it was The End of the Innocence and the beginnings of the grim reality of war for two determined adversaries.

The Henry Hill House which would be a focal point in both battles. Really illustrates the importance of high ground. 

Monument to TJ "Stonewall" Jackson who stood in the face of the Union like a, well, you get it. 

Harper's Ferry

This scenic little town located where the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers join in Virginia is also at the confluence of the course of American history in the 19th century. I had forgotten that this was Meriwether Lewis' first stop after getting his orders from Jefferson. He provisioned the Corps of Discovery with arms from the armory, plus designed those amazing packable boats

Oh, that's all he did here. Glad I don't have to condense my words as much as the sign guy. 



Of course, the armory was the target of the abolitionist John Brown in his 1859 uprising. He holed up in the firehouse. Robert E. Lee was sent with Marines to quell the uprising, and Thomas Jonathan Jackson(not yet a Stonewall) tried in vain to settle it peaceably.

John Br

Sunday, December 15, 2013

Small states

Both of us have been to Boston but neither had been to Rhode Island (gasp) so we skirted Beantown and headed south. Newport is historic and certainly full of gorgeous mansions and places like the Breakers, plus a nice waterfront, but it just wasn't what we were looking for that day. Didn't take us long to see all we desired (except for Taylor Swift's mansion) and move on to Connecticut.

We dropped into Mystic and enjoyed lobstah rolls overlooking the drawbridge. Then it was across the bridge to visit the US Coast Guard Academy in New London. Sophia is interested in a commission at the Academy, so we looked around and took some photos. Gotta say, there were lots of pretty young women cadets on campus, just in case your son expresses an interest.
Pretty campus, even if it is much smaller than West Point or Annapolis. 

Last stop of the day in CT was at Jimmy "Mongo" and Rebecca Harris' home. They built their own house about the same time we were working on ours and I received a lot of good tips and suggestions from Mongo. But I could never come close to his finish carpentry skills which are evident throughout the house. Check Marina's blog for photos of the mouse hole bed she wants to duplicate when we get home. Their kitchen is also top of the line and we really enjoyed the home cooking and visiting. Wonderful respite from the grind of the road, motels, and restaurants. Thanks a bunch y'all!


That'd be Jimmy wearing shorts in the snow!
We were both surprised by the open space and forests in both states. The towns are long and strung out along the roads but in the rural areas, the large lots are shielded by trees and the Highways mostly avoid major metro areas, so even though we have counties Bigger'n than RI in Texas, it's funny how remote and apparently large it all seems.

Thursday, December 12, 2013

Maine goals

When temps are mid 20s and your goal is a national park on the north Atlantic Coast, a solid breakfast is an important start. Through years of communication with state biologists about bird populations and pie spots, I have collected a pretty good nationwide data base.
Truck stop outside Bangor came highly recommended so we stopped at Dysart's. Not only fabulous homemade raspberry and blueberry pie, but also amazingly spicy punkin pancakes. Plus peppermint whoopee pies for the trip home. And Marina is now a big fan of truck stop corned beef hash!


It was too brutal to truly enjoy the scenery where ocean battles granite day after day, century after century at Acadia. We did stroll Sand Beach briefly. Low tide quieted Thunder Hole.




Maine's version of a white sand beach- even in our 8 piece suits, we didn't frolic long.

Mojo timing was perfect for us to drive into Tilton, NH and catch Johnny Witkowski, Ski's oldest, and the Tilton Rams put it on Worcester Academy 76-63. John now 6'5 and doing all the dirty work coaches and real basketball fans appreciate - tough D, offensive rebounds and put backs, boxing out. Good stuff! Then got to enjoy dinner with "little" brother Packy (only 6'3!) and Pops. Love meeting new folks along the road, but almost feels like home when you can take a break and talk about kids and family along the way.

Marina said she felt short.