4 days sans connectivity, yet so connected

Without really trying we've managed to avoid cell towers and wifi since Wednesday morning. Found plenty to do anyways!
9/11 started out a bit sad as none of the 5 Canadians asked recalled the significance of the date😪
Put that behind us and started down a new road, the South Canol, which is best described by photos...

Lapie River canyon 

Old WWII bridge

Grizzlies, grouse, gravel... awesome combination.
Next stopped to fish confluence of Pony Creek and Rose Lake...recommended by one of the conservation officers in Faro.

Then on to Rose River No. 6, a small stream that was even better'n RCMP Creek on the Dempster for grayling! Personal best fish for us both!

Plus some smaller ones for supper at our TBD campsite.

Found a cozy spot further along the Rose River and in short order had a tidy camp established. Camping rhythm running smoothly and efficiently, although it is a lot more fun to camp near other than willows for BTU purposes!

Whittlin' fish sticks...

Fish Sticks...

Add a little seasoning, and...

Yum!

Good rhythm all around...

Not connected?!

On the way out, found a sprightly little spruce grouse and later, even pie! More interested in eating the pie than the bird though...

Sleeping with the ptarmigan

New road started with ferry across the Pelly River then immediately into 4WD.

Sporting and gorgeous road up to MacMillan Pass on YT/NWT border. Awesome views of mountain lakes, streams and vistas...

Found a First Nation's hunting camp with friendly set up just across the border for tasty supper of grouse and lentils.

Then a wonderful Northern Lights display/ conversation as they hovered over the rig, keeping us company. Again, no photos - it's more of an experience and feeling than image.
But Brother Moon did rise full in a gunsight of the Mackenzie Range.

Up before the sun to start coffee, interact with the Lights a little longer and enjoy a crisp 25° start to a mountain morning.

Listened to several coveys of  ptarmigan greet the morning across the valley. Also had some sort of large visitor moving thru the willows near camp which got my attention enough to make the hair stand on the back of neck and the shotgun sit on my shoulder. Whatever it was wandered off.

Started back down the road, visiting with hunters, fishing, eating wild strawberries for breakfast. 

Another new road today!

More fun above 60° latitude!

Still stuck in the Arctic

At the Peel River ferry were told the Dempster still closed and may be several more days...ferrymen are great sources of intel. Ferries are pretty cool too.

 

Drove to the closed gate across the Dempster by James Creek and got ready for another overnight as the prognosis didn't sound good. About 20 other rigs staged and waiting too.
Fished and set up camp.

Learned that the only thing more irritating than black flies are bored and nosy retirees from BC who kept popping into camp to tell us how to build a fire and properly care for a dutch oven. Or the drone that circled Burf! while he had slipped into the woods hoping for a peaceful squat. Jeez...

Awakened before sunrise next morning to "pack up boys, we're opening the road for one caravan in 15 minutes!"
Assholes and elbows breaking camp and packing but were 10th in line, a testament to our camping rhythm!
Headed south towards the Circle with the crowds and found out the reason for the rollover was a Canadream RV who forced the rig to the lowest wet side of the road and he flipped off the wet shoulder. Can't provision for humans...

Stopped and left Kali some ruffed grouse wings on our way past. First time I've gotten to revisit one of her resting places and a few more tears.
Fished a creek recommend by the mounties in Dawson and it was loaded with grayling!

Then sped south hoping to reenter XM satellite range for LSU @ UT. Drove out of coverage at 4672 miles north and back in at 5690 headed south, so over a thousand miles beyond sat range. Horns were up 7-3 at that point but that didn't last long...

Back in to Dawson and once again it was packed. Got the last room in the Westminister and Burf! took the floor again. Did enjoy meeting 1/3 of the incoming class at Yukon Institute of Cultural Art - Amira, Dylan, Saskia and Bethany are bright and talented, should have wonderful futures. At least that's the view from their "new Texas Dads" as they christened us.
Burf! also joined the Sourtoe Club in Dawson, downing a shot of Yukon whiskey without swallowing or biting the frostbitten toe in the glass!

Gave the rig a quick wash for visibility and gas can access then moved further south, shooting grouse and catching grayling into Carmacks where we got a cabin on the Yukon River, did laundry and reprovisioned.

Headed down to fish a while then off for the Canol Road, the only one in Yukon we haven't traveled!
No services for next few days along the route, so may be a while before the next update, but don't worry for us.
We're ready for any contingency - provided we can get far enough away from humans!

Stuck in the Arctic

With 18 months of prep we had provisioned for everything but humans...
Headed south from Inuvik we returned to the Mackenzie ferry where they told us the Dempster was closed due to an LP tanker rollover north of Eagle Plains. We had been planning to fish Frog Creek  again anyway so we dropped into Ft. McPherson for a few camp supplies then returned for fishing.
Mucky and wet so had to hike in.

Definitely worth the effort though as got to catch my first fish on the new 8wt, a 24" northern pike ... Supper!!!

Set up a muddy wet camp and Burf! got the fire going on his first attempt. Tasty supper and tidy camp!

Camping rhythm in the Sequoia going well, everything properly stowed for the night. Plus, the layers of mud on back glass made it similar to sleeping in a hearse. Although apparently I've developed an enviable yet irritating snoring cadence...

Sometime during the night the Northern Lights began their show to our south! We hauled out of our bags and stood shivering in the night, quietly immersing ourselves with the ethereal phenomenon and gazing in awe.
As a wordsmith still finding it difficult to accurately describe the magic of the Lights on a cold Arctic night when your breathing is the only sound... didn't even consider taking photos.
All preserved on my internal hard drive for future reflection...
Up early the next morning for camp coffee and dropping south, closer to the Arctic Circle, full of confidence in our camping scheme and optimistic about coming adventures...